Paris fashion week started with a roar when Kylie Jenner arrived at the first show of the season wearing a realistic lion’s head on her shoulder.
The Schiaparelli dress, which also appeared on the catwalk, was made of “foam, wool and silk faux fur, and hand painted to be as realistic as possible,” the brand said on Instagram.
To make things perfectly clear, the brand added, in all caps: “NO ANIMAL WAS HARMED WHILE CREATING THIS LOOK.”
But choosing the controversial youngest scion of the Kardashian-Jenner clan to launch a dress open to interpretation may have been a misstep for the French fashion house.
If anyone wore a real lion’s head, commenters on social media explained, it would be Jenner. Several Twitter users seemed to mistake the head for a real piece of taxidermy.
Some of the backlash was more nuanced. A comment on Schiaperelli’s Instagram post, which attracted more than 600 likes, said, “We need to stop showing animals as luxury ‘commodities’. They can be made from moss, but they are endangered species that have historically been killed for their skins to be made into clothing.
The fashion house, which has deep ties to the surrealist art movement, was established in 1927. Like many luxury fashion brands at the time, the house, under its founder Elsa Schiaparelli, used furs exotics and animal skins in its original version. apogee. While the oversized animal prints remained when the brand was relaunched by Tod’s Group in 2012, the house later ditched real fur.
Not all animal rights activists were bothered by the lion, with Peta President Ingrid Newkirk praising the look. She told TMZ that the brand’s collection of three-dimensional animal heads are “fabulously innovative” and “can be a statement against trophy hunting, in which families of lions are torn apart to satisfy human selfishness.” “.
Jenner’s look was part of a series of faux fur garments, designed by Daniel Roseberry. The collection also included a black wolf head, modeled by Naomi Campbell, and a strapless snow leopard dress, with an equally realistic head growling from the bodice.
Apart from the show at the Petit Palais, the musician Doja Cat also turned heads (humans). Her entire face and body were painted red and studded with 30,000 Swarovski crystals. The complex visual effects makeup, dubbed “Doja’s Hell” by Pat McGrath, the makeup artist who created it, took more than five hours to apply.
Doja Cat’s look was a nod to Roseberry’s collection, which was inspired by Dante’s Nine Circles of Hell.
In the show’s notes, Roseberry wrote, “What seduced me about ‘Inferno’ wasn’t just the theatrics of Dante’s creation – it was how perfect a metaphor offered the torment that every performer or creative person experiences when we sit in front of the screen or the sketchbook.
The Inferno theme may have been a nod to the designer’s process, but it could also have applied to the reception of the collection.